Ferret Info
Ferret Info
Ferrets are NOT wild animals; they are domesticated descendants of the wild polecat, members of the Mustelidae family of animals that include the stoat, weasel, otter and badger. Any ferret that is seen in the British countryside is feral (either an escaped or abandoned domestic ferret, or from a totally unethical practice of breed & release).
Ferrets were introduced to Britain around 2000 years ago, and were used to flush rabbits (introduced to Britain at the same time) from the man-made warrens by the warrener to collect them for the pot.
This is still practiced today, and is probably the most effective method of removing rabbits from the countryside.
A working ferret is one that is used for flushing wild rabbits out of their burrows, which is a humane and environmentally acceptable means of pest control, and causes a lot less damage than pesticides & poisons.
Ferrets are kept by a wide variety of people, either as working animals or as pets. They range in colour from pink-eyed albinos, through increasingly darker markings, to the polecat coloured ferret, which retains the dark mask of the wild polecat. Many people think that the name Polecat Ferret refers to a crossbreed between the 2 species, but it is only a description of the ferret's colouring/markings. The correct term is Sable, which is the name of the Polecat coloured fur.
Pet ferrets can be great companions. They play actively, especially with a companion and like nothing better than to rummage in whatever is available! Ferrets that are neutered lose the strong musky smell and have no more body odour than other pets. They certainly smell a lot less than a wet dog.
For whatever reason you keep ferrets, the NFWS (National Ferret Welfare Society) can be a source of information that members can consult to help them look after their ferrets better and work them properly.
The Society has many active, individual members and affiliated clubs, spread throughout the United Kingdom, and as far a field as Europe, Australia and the USA.
The affiliated clubs and organisations, support the objectives of the NFWS
Ferret clubs combine advice on the husbandry and welfare of ferrets, and information and instruction on the use of working ferrets, together with the social activities and companionship associated with any club.
There are also separate welfare and rescue organisations, run by active members of the NFWS, who sadly are too often asked to help where ferrets have been neglected or abandoned by their keepers.
What is the ferret population of the UK?
Who knows?...
...It could be as many as one million, or even more, since there are many ferret keeper who do not belong to any of the recognised bodies.
The NFWS aims to promote responsible ownership.
What does a ferret eat?
Ferrets are carnivores, they eat meat. Their natural diet is rabbit, which nature evolved them to be effective hunters of. They will also eat eggs of ground-nesting birds, and the birds if they get a chance.
There are complete ferret foods available on the market, which are biscuit-like and are meat-based with added vitamins & minerals to help keep a ferret in top condition. If you don't like the idea of feeding raw meat, these are an ideal substitute.
Can a ferret eat fruit and vegetables?
In short, no. A ferret's digestive system is not designed to handle them, their digestion rate is approx. 4 hours from intake to outlet. Fruit & vegetables take a lot longer to digest and may pass through their system only partially digested, giving little or no nutrition, causing malnutrition or even starvation. The partially digested vegetable matter can cause intestinal blockages, and in severe cases may even cause death.
Look after your ferret properly and it will work its heart out for you, or be an excellent companion.
At country shows and similar events, you will often find a ferret show run by a local club, or the NFWS. There may be judging or classes for the best albino, coloured or polecat ferret. Or just a display of ferrets where knowledgeable owners are prepared to pass on welfare information to interested visitors.
Both these activities encourage improved welfare conditions for the ferrets.
You may also see ferret racing. Ferrets are naturally curious and will usually find their way along the racing tubes without any persuasion from their owners. Racing is also used to help raise funds for a club.
How long does a ferret live?
Ferrets live between 6 to 10 years, but have been known to live a bit longer, even to 12 or 13 years old. Which is something to take into consideration when rehoming one.
SOURCES OF INFORMATION:
Here are some of the ways that you can find out more about looking after your ferret:-
Read the following information, some basic information on housing, health and husbandry is given.
Buy or borrow from a library a recognised British book on ferrets. We would recommend "THE COMPLETE BOOK OF FERRETS" by Porter & Brown, or WORKING FERRETS by Jackie Drakeford, but there are others available.
Find a local vet used to ferrets, many vets in the UK have never seen a ferret (and some don't want to). A good vet should be willing to give you advice and may know local ferret keepers. Don't wait until you have a sick animal - find a vet before or as soon as you get your ferret.
Attend country shows, or shows where ferret exhibits are advertised and talk to the stand holder and other ferret owners. Never acquire a ferret from 'a man with a box' at a show. Make sure you see the home that the ferret comes from.
Join a local club.
SOME FACTS ABOUT FERRETS
Ferrets are believed to have been introduced into this country by the Romans and used to flush rabbits from their burrows. At one time managed rabbit warrens were a vital source of meat for the people.
The ferret is the domesticated relation of either the Siberian or the European (Wild) Polecat (Mustela Putorius). The wild polecat occurs throughout Europe.
The Ferret belongs to the Mustelidae family; badger, otter, stoat, weasel, mink etc. In North America its' largest relative is the wolverine, followed by the skunk. Like the skunk the polecat has a powerful scent gland which is used for marking territory, this is also prominent feature in our domesticated ferret.
Ferrets may be: Albino (white with pink eyes), Polecat (so called NOT because they are the actual wild polecat, but because of the dark banding around the eyes and nose) and, depending on where you live, Sandy, Fitch or just plain coloured ferrets (a range of shades between polecat and albino), all have been favoured by breeders for their shape, size or markings.
Feral ferrets (domesticated animals that have been released or escaped into the wild) are, unfortunately, all too common in this country, probably brought about by uncaring owners. However there are a number of welfare centres who will take in some of the unwanted animals and re-home them.
Ferrets should not be thought of as 'wild animals'. They were brought here already domesticated. Ferrets and working with ferrets have become increasingly popular and can offer many hours of rewarding activity. They need not, however, be used for rabbiting as great fun can be enjoyed at the many shows and ferret races held throughout the country during the summer months. Ferrets make very loving pets - don't let anyone tell you differently! But ferrets are carnivores and can't be expected to co-habit with other small mammals although some may.
THE FERRETER
Once a pillar of society - hence the name Warrener - the image of the ferreter in more recent times was one of dubiety as they were considered sly, devious folk, intent upon poaching game, but in many cases it was through necessity to provide the next meal. Fortunately this is not the case today. Many people consider ferreting a cheap and efficient method of rabbit control, and some members of the NFWS provide this service: contrary to what some believe the role of the ferret is to chase the rabbits - not to catch them. The ferreter nets the holes and catches and despatches the rabbits as humanely as possible.
We would like to point out that unless requested, ferreters do not attempt to exterminate the entire rabbit population as this would remove future ferreting activities. Ferreters do not make loud 'Bangs'. discharge firearms, poison ground, lay true or false baits or use chemicals of any type. We have the utmost respect for land, property and belongings, whomsoever the owner, and we shall continue to emphasise this point to all who will listen. This is to show that we are an aware section of the community who truly care for our natural habitat and surroundings.
WE HOPE THIS IS THE IMAGE WE PORTRAY
If you intend to work your ferrets be sure you have 'Written permission' to go on the land and carry it with you, then if you are challenged you are in the clear. We would also recommend the use of an electronic 'ferret locator', so that you know where your ferret is when it is underground.
HOW TO OBTAIN YOUR FERRET
Ferret kits are born generally between May and August and should not leave their family until they are at least eight weeks old, they should then, on average, live for between 6 and 8 years. If you, are considering having a kit remember they are only available in the summer and early autumn; adults may be obtained at other times but will either be surplus to requirements or rescues. Be prepared to wait for the right one to come along.
If you do not know anyone who keeps ferrets locally a telephone call to your nearest NFWS representative may help you make contact with someone who can supply you. Alternatively one of the organisations listed on the 'Affiliated' page.
Another reliable source is your veterinary surgeon. If they have clients with ferrets they will be able to put you in contact or supply information on who keeps ferrets locally.
If you have little or no knowledge regarding ferrets, then please do not attempt to acquire one without seeking advice. We have found that hasty action more often than not leads to disillusion and heartache. Take someone with you who knows ferrets, better still, take a NFWS member with you on your mission, they are always willing to help.
If you are considering a ferret as a pet, please think long and hard before deciding. Once you have obtained your ferret the hard work really begins. Keeping ferrets is no easy task and requires dedication. Only people who are prepared to give time and effort should consider having them as pets.
Some members of the Society offer a 'rescue service' to collect ferrets that have been abandoned, lost or just found wandering in search of food. One of the disheartening aspects of this is that we are often called upon to collect unwanted pets. It seems that the novelty of keeping an 'exotic' soon wears off.
So if you are considering a ferret as a pet, PLEASE THINK LONG AND HARD BEFORE DECIDING.
One more important point: PLEASE DO NOT, either for yourself or for another person, acquire a ferret on impulse. They may appear to be well mannered, soft, cuddly and loveable - indeed they are, but these standards have only been brought about by hard work, affection and dedication to the animals which we care about very much.
MALE OR FEMALE - IT'S YOUR DECISION
When choosing your ferrets, think carefully about which you would prefer - male or female. It's your decision, but you should keep a minimum of two. Ferrets are gregarious (they love company) and should have the company of their own kind, no matter how long you spend with them. Occasionally older ferrets will not accept a companion, be warned.
Whether you have, or chose to have, males (hobs) or females (jills) or one of each, you should seriously consider having them neutered, that is making them incapable of breeding. Your vet will perform this operation for a similar cost to neutering a cat. For kits it should be done in early January when they are fully developed, not before.
The male comes into season early in the new year. This will be noticeably clear when the scrotum drops and the testes descend. They will also start to become more aggressive, dragging the jills and sometimes other hob around, as in mating, and being (literally) a pain in the neck. Out of the breeding season the male may not show testicles at all.
Keeping males singly or together is much easier when they have been neutered. The urge to mate disappears and peace and harmony reign and the 'strong ferrety smell' is cut to a mild odour.
The female will come into season in early spring and will stay in season until brought out. This involves either:-
Breeding (not advised).
The use of a vasectomised hob.
A hormone injection (jill jab).
Having the jills neutered (spayed).
A hob can be vasectomised for a similar cost to spaying a jill, and is worth considering if you would like to breed from your jills in the future. Some clubs keep a vasectomised hob, and offer its' services to their members, but please consider the risks of spreading diseases (see section on health). With a vasectomised hob the act of mating takes place without the patter of tiny paws, although the signs of a phantom pregnancy may sometimes occur.
BREEDING
Breeding ferrets (or any animals) requires thought, time and more care than usual, and should not be taken on by a raw beginner. Take time, at least two years, to become acquainted with the needs of your ferrets before even considering producing your own stock.
The average litter of ferret kits is 6 - 8 but much larger litters are not uncommon. If you are seriously considering breeding. Have you thought about finding homes, really good homes for that many baby ferrets? Bear in mind that a jill is capable of having two litters in a year. Can you guarantee finding 20+ homes for your babies? If the answer is NO... DON'T BREED. It is far easier in the long run to buy in new stock when you need or want it than cause the jill any upset by breeding and producing lots of unwanted kits. There are usually far too many bred each year so why add to the problem?
HOUSING AND ACCOMMODATION
Most ferrets live in outdoor cages, but wherever they are two things are most important, a dark enclosed sleeping box with a 8.5cm (3.5") diameter entrance hole and ventilation at the top, and secondly a toilet area that has wood shavings or cat litter and can be easily cleaned every day.
A good sized rabbit hutch modified to have a ferret sized entrance to the
sleeping quarters is suitable for up to 2 ferrets
The second example consists of a hutch and run combined to save space. The hutch is half sleeping and half feeding area and one hopes the run will be used as the toilet. This unit should be stood on concrete or slabs as ferrets will soon dig out of an earth floor.
If the cage is to be in an exposed situation it may be advisable to insulate the sleeping area by filling the space between the hutch and a second inner box with fibre glass wool or polystyrene, be sure to drill some ventilation holes near the top. Ensure the sleeping area is raised well clear of the ground to eliminate damp. Ferrets hate damp and draughts.
Wire mesh for ferret cages would be at least 16g welded mesh as ferrets have been known to worry ordinary chicken wire until it breaks.
Cages can be made any shape or size you choose and include extra boxes and tubes for play. Ferrets love to play and certainly need to be kept amused, a bored ferret will try to escape and probably get into mischief! Whatever housing you use please make sure it is strong enough and secure. Ferrets do not gnaw but they use their teeth to pull at lose edges and scrabble with their very strong front claws. It is essential that no gaps are left as ferrets are born escapologists. If you give a ferret an inch - it will be out and away.
YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED
It is also advisable to be able to lock your ferret house securely or keep it in a locked shed. We hear all too many stories of ferrets being stolen.
Bedding can be of clean hay or straw (beware of parasites), shredded paper or old clothing and should be changed regularly when it becomes soiled. Wood shavings (not cedar wood) or sawdust for recreation and toilet areas (DO NOT use a deep layer of sawdust as it can get into their eyes, ears and mouth).
Ferrets that are kept indoors can be trained to use a litter tray if you are lucky.
FEEDING AND BASIC DIET
Ferrets are carnivores, and as such need regular amounts of fresh meat, which must be the mainstay of their diet. Various alternatives are possible, pet mince, day old chicks or small birds and mammals (whole carcass preferred), pre-packed brawn etc. All are nutritional forms of food which can be supplemented occasionally with small amounts of well-watered fresh milk or eggs, whipped with a little cereal. Ferrets are not adverse to Sunday's leftovers always remembering the need for fresh meat. Fish is also a favourite, providing it is not salty.
Many of the dried biscuit type of foods are suitable for ferrets and some are specially formulated for them. These foods are particularly good in hot weather when fresh meat quickly goes off, ferrets have a habit of storing some in a corner for later! Feeding fresh meat last thing in the evening and removing leftovers in the morning reduces this problem and avoids flies etc.
If you are working your ferrets they should be fed before you set off to reduce their inclination to kill. Most keepers will feed twice a day, morning and evening.
Bread and milk is no alternative for fresh meat. Ferrets fed on a constant diet of sops (bread and milk) will not only become thin and rakish but their scats (excrement) become very loose and will stink the cage to high heaven. Tinned cat food also has this effect. A smelly cage will attract all manner of small insects and flies and may even cause illness.
FRESH DRINKING WATER MUST BE AVAILABLE AT ALL TIMES. . . PARTICULARLY WHEN DRY FOODS ARE BEING FED. A drinking bottle or a stainless steel bowl set in cast concrete collar, to stop the ferrets tipping it over, are ideal. Some ferrets will love to put their heads in the water and splash it everywhere if they are given the chance so you may need a rod across the bowl.
HYGIENE, CARE & AFFECTION
Cleanliness is all important. Be sure to clean your cage(s) as often as possible, keeping flies and insects to a minimum, thus eliminating infection. DON'T let the toilet area build up for days on end - you don't do it in your own home so why should your ferret suffer!
Ferrets (like humans) occasionally have a bath (some revel in it!) so why not make a date on your calendar for a bath and a good comb out - for the ferret that is! Do not bath too often or you will destroy the natural oils in your ferrets' coat. On the other hand if you come in from a day's working and your ferret is filthy it may be a good time for a bath, so you can check for ticks or injuries.
Caring for your ferret requires regular scrupulous checking of its well being. Examine your animals for fleas, ticks or lice (if you use hay or straw for bedding, fleas and ticks are a regularity), but also concentrate on eyes, ears, neck area and claws, the front ones should be cut back at regular intervals (about every 4 weeks). Clear surplus wax from the outer ears and apply an ear wash, ideally when you clip the claws. Be aware of cuts, abrasions and bald patches. Remember infection can set in very quickly if left untreated. If you are in any doubt consult your veterinary surgeon as soon as possible.
Ferrets, like all animals, need regular exercise for their well being. If you don't wish to work your ferret (rabbiting) make sure it has the opportunity to run and play - round the garage or the back yard! But make sure it is secure! In the house - if the rest of the family can be pacified! Or take it for a walk on a lead and harness - it'll give you the excuse you need to take some exercise yourself.
There are countless ways that you can make their life more fun - plastic drain pipes, old cardboard boxes, supermarket carrier bags etc. But remember given half a chance they will escape while your back is turned.
FERRET HEALTH
Before taking on your ferret be sure you find a good local Vet who is prepared to treat ferrets if the need arises. Don't be afraid to ask the cost before commencing treatment and seek a second quotation if you think the first is too high. Some vets appear to raise their charges for animals that they don't like handling.
A directory of Veterinary Surgeons who are used by members is being compiled by the Society. Contact your local representative for details.
Ferrets should be regularly vaccinated to protect them against Canine Distemper which can be a killer. Consult your vet for advice.
Ferrets should be wormed regularly, particularly if they are fed on the spoils of ferreting expeditions. Many vets will recommend Panacur; tablet or liquid. This can be purchased at a chemist or pet store as well as from your vet.
Ferrets are susceptible to Aleutian disease (AD) which is caused by a virus. Once infected a ferret can pass it on by other ferrets coming into contact with its bodily fluids even after a period of days. An infected ferret can take up to 200 days to show signs of acute disease; black tarry faeces, recurring high temperature, weight loss, hind end paralysis and even sudden death. There is a test for this disease but no cure. Owners are strongly advised to have their animals tested especially if they are working ferrets. Aleutian disease is being spread largely by the wild mink. Most affiliated clubs arrange low cost group testing sessions.
BEWARE - Ferrets can catch human colds and influenza. Don't get too close to your ferret if you have a cold, you don't want to make it suffer unnecessarily.
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